Surviving Off-grid: Hot Water From Your Wood Stove

This article was originally published by Chris Black  on  www.survivopedia.com

Whether we’re talking about off-grid survival or just having the opportunity to enjoy the benefits of living in the 21st century in our cabin in the woods, having hot water for taking a shower, shaving, or taking a nice long bath is one of the yardsticks of well-being.

 

What can be nicer than enjoying a hot shower after working all day outside in the cold? And even better, if that hot water is completely free of charge? It doesn’t sound bad, does it?

Moreover, it would be pretty nice to have hot water at your disposal without being dependent upon a utilities company, whether we’re talking about electricity or gas.

We’re Reviving Ancient Techniques

What I am trying to tell you is that nowadays, heating water is one of the most overlooked functions when it comes to the archaic wood stove.

Just a few decades ago, many wood stoves were built with a water tank (it was called a range boiler) behind/beside the respective wood stove, for producing free and virtually limitless amounts of hot water. A two for the price of one kind of a deal.

Basically, whether you’re looking to save some dollars on your utility bills or get hot water in some place remote without breaking the piggy bank, the main idea is that you can use your wood stove for more than warming your homestead, cooking and whatever else wood stoves are usually good for.

Truth be told, domestic wood stove-based water heating systems are not new; they were invented centuries ago.

The Romans constructed incredibly clever central heating systems for public buildings (and the rich also had them, because they were too expensive for plebes) in an era sans electricity, and we’re talking 2000+ years ago. I know it sounds incredible, but yes, they actually had central heating through the floors 2 millennia ago; that’s how smart Romans were.

The Roman system was called Hypocaust and it worked by producing and circulating hot air below the floors (even walls in some cases) using a network of pipes. Hot air passed through those pipes and heated the floors/walls and obviously, the air was heated via furnaces burning wood and/or coal, because there was no electricity or piped gas back in the day.

In the event of a grid-down situation, how many of you are planning on heating their home with wood?

Learn from our forefathers how to install an emergency wood-burning stove!

How the Heater Works

Hence, getting hot water using a wood stove uses the same basic principle as a Hypocaust, but with a twist: water is used in our case instead of air, because it’s difficult to take a shower without water, right? I know – there’s an invention called dry cleaning, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

Joking aside, to keep it simple: a regular water heater is nothing more than a tank of sorts, sitting on top or next to your wooden stove. As water rises when heated, hot water is drawn from the top and cold water is piped at the bottom via a piping system, obviously.

How does it work, you may ask? Well, it’s pretty straightforward: the stove water heater uses heat exchangers for transferring heat from the stove to the water. Depending on the design, the heat exchangers can be mounted inside of the stove, on the outside of the stove, or in the stovepipe.

Water is circulated through the heat exchanger when a fire is burning in two ways: naturally, via the thermosiphon principle which relies on water rising when heated or by using a pump.

The heat exchanger device is available in 3 main varieties:

  • a serpentine coil made of, in most cases, copper pipe
  • a small absorber, like a solar-collector
  • a box-like mini-tank. Most heat exchangers are mini-tanks or coils mounted inside the stove.

The heat exchanger can be built using copper, stainless steel, or galvanized iron, and they’re commercially available or they can be built in local shops or DIY-ed depending on your skills. For our intents and purposes, we’ll have to rely on the thermosiphon system, because this system works wonderfully off the grid and it doesn’t require fancy stuff like pumps and all that jazz.

The Tips that Lead to Success

“Keep it simple stupid” is the name of the game in a survival situation. As things get complicated, the probability of something failing rises exponentially.

Whenever the stove is used, water must circulate through the heat exchanger in order to prevent it from boiling. The storage tank must always be located higher than the heat exchanger and as close as possible to the stove.

Thermosiphoning-based systems are better than electrical-pumped ones not only because of their simplicity and availability, but also because in the eventuality of a power outage, the pump will stop working, leading to overheating the water in the heat exchanger.

This is a DIY project that can provide you with endless hot water without requiring electricity, as it’s based on the thermosiphoning process. This one uses a therma coil – a homemade unit – which consists of a serpentine made of copper, which is put inside the wood stove and connected via plumbing to a water tank.

This is a hot water-on-demand heater which can help you in a variety of situations. And best of all, everything is made using scrap materials, more or less (except for the copper piping, I guess).

Video first seen on engineer775 Practical Preppers

As a general rule of thumb, for best results, you should isolate all your hot water lines more than 3 feet away from the wood stove using slip-on foam insulation, which is designed for temperatures up to 250 degrees Fahrenheit.

Don’t forget to spend 10 bucks on a thermometer; it’s well worth the investment and it will help you with eliminating all guesswork with regard to determining water temperature.

Copper is one of the best piping materials out there, as it’s very easy to work with when building coils (the heat exchanger gizmo), but remember that when used with iron, the latter will corrode.

The second DIY job is made by the same guy but this time, instead of a copper serpentine placed inside the wood stove, he uses a simpler water coil made of stainless steel. The rest is basically the same, check out the video.

Video first seen on engineer775 Practical Preppers

The third project also uses the thermosiphoning principle (hot water rises) and copper tubing for making the serpentines, but this is a “larger scale job” compared to the previous two, and more complex.

Video first seen on convectioncoil.com.

The fourth and last DIY project uses an interesting design, i.e. a double-walled water heater (a double-walled 6-inch pipe, basically) and between the walls there’s copper water pipe circling the inner wall, thus transferring the heat from the wood stove to the water circulating through the piping.

Video first seen on thenewsurvivalist.

That about sums it up for today folks. There are still many lessons to be learned.

Remember that knowledge is everything in a survival situation and take our ancestors’ example – they survived when there was no electricity.

Click the banner below to uncover their lost secrets!

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20 Easy-to-Build DIY Firewood Shed Plans and Design Ideas

This article was originally published by Jennifer Poindexter  on www.morningchores.com

Do you heat your home with wood during the colder months of the year? Are you searching for the perfect place to store your chopped wood?

Look no further because we have you covered. I’ll be bringing you excellent firewood shed plans and design ideas.

It’s our hope you’ll find the one which will meet your needs. Whether you store only a small amount of wood or a significant quantity, there will be something for you.

Don’t leave your wood stacked in the elements. Build the perfect shelter to keep your firewood dry and ready to burn on those cold nights.

Here are the internet’s best firewood shed plans and design ideas:

1. Firewood Rack Without Tools

Do you live off-grid? This could mean you heat your home with wood, but this also puts you in an unusual situation when trying to build because many off-grid places have limited alternative electricity sources.

Well, this firewood rack can be built without the use of any tools. Plus, it’s a great way to keep your wood neatly stacked together. You could add a roof if you live in an extremely damp climate.

2. DIY Backyard Firewood Shed

One might assume you have to heat an entire house with wood to need a firewood shed, but this is not true.

In reality, if you have a firepit you like to keep warm around during the fall months or to use for entertainment, then you might find a mini-woodshed in your backyard to keep your wood neatly stacked and dry quite useful.

3. The Smoking Rack

Do you have a barbeque or smokehouse you need to keep going with firewood? You need to keep your wood dry, in this case.

Consider using this idea for a smoking rack. You put the larger pieces of wood in the bottom section and the smaller wood in the top part of the rack. It’s organized and makes using the wood easier.

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4. The Easy Firewood Rack

This firewood rack comes with a tutorial on how to build it, but you won’t need it most likely. You can tell how the rack is put together by looking at it.

The rack has cinderblocks under it to steady it and has four posts. The posts have a rectangle of wood at the bottom and one at the top. This completes the rack and should hold enough firewood to keep you warm for multiple nights.

5. The Kee Klamp Firewood Rack

Do you want to build a firewood rack, but you want to use something different than wood? This one should be right up your alley.

It’s built from metal poles and fittings. They’re arranged to create a stable rack which can be as large or small as you like.

6. Pallet Firewood Shed

If you can get your hands on quite a few pallets, you could have your shed done in no time. This shed has both sides and a roof.

But it also contains a detailed tutorial with lots of pictures to walk you through each step of the process. This firewood shed could be inexpensive, easy to build, and functional too.

7. The Greenhouse Firewood Shed

This shed is unique and not something you see regularly. In fact, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen one quite like it.

However, if you have wood to build a frame, you can wrap the outside of the shed in plastic. This draws heat and helps to dry your firewood even faster.

8. The Two Layer Wood Storage Shed

If you like the idea of having a wood storage shed with two sections (one for the larger wood and one for kindling) you’ll love this.

This shed has the two different sections, a slanted roof covered in metal, and is a great size for your firepit, and it comes with a handy tutorial to walk you through the process.

9. The Straightforward Woodshed

Do you need a woodshed which is sensible, straightforward, and can be built with little to no fuss? This is your wood shed.

It looks similar to some of the other shed ideas shared, yet this one comes with a helpful tutorial and has only one section for storage.

10. The Log Rack

This is another firewood rack, but unlike some of the others shared, this rack is meant to hold ‘mac daddy’ pieces of wood.

Therefore, if you’re someone who heats your home only with wood during winter months, and you use large logs to burn for longer times, you’ll enjoy this rack. It can hold large chunks of wood and has a helpful tutorial for the build too.

11. Pyramid Outdoor Wood Storage Sheds

Who says a firewood shed has to be done in the typical design? According to this idea, you can make wood storage sheds into any shape you like.

Using triangular wood sheds works well because it keeps things stacked neatly and tight too. This is important because it helps to keep your property organized. It also helps to keep your property safer because the wood won’t topple over as easily.

12. The Log Store at the Back Door

If you live in a wooden house, I don’t recommend stacking wood closely to it because you do run the risk of attracting unwanted visitors to your home.

However, if you live in another type of structure, this design is cool. They build a log store at their back door. This way, they don’t have to go out in the elements to get more wood. It’s an interesting idea.

Click here to learn how to identify the wild edibles and remedies that grow especially in the prairie

13. How to Specialist Firewood Shed

Are you someone who has basic carpentry skills? If not, do you have a buddy who could help you get started?

If you answered yes to either of the above questions, you’re ready for this firewood shed. It comes with a detailed tutorial and plans to help you build. Plus, this shed has a roof and sides which is great for a damp climate.

14. 4ft x 2ft Wood Log Store

Are you someone who needs wood storage, but you aren’t the craftiest person around? There’s something on this list for you as well.

Instead of building a firewood shed, consider purchasing one. This design has a place for larger wood to be stored on the bottom and the kindling to be stored on top. Because of the roof and sides, your wood should stay dry as well.

15. The Large Woodshed

When we lived in a larger home, we tried hard to use wood heat as much as possible to keep our electric bill under control during the winter months.

However, this required a large woodshed because we went through a great deal of wood. If you burn lots of wood over winter, consider this woodshed design idea where it has four separate bays for firewood storage.

16. The Timber Frame Woodshed

Are you looking for a traditional style woodshed? One which has a solid floor, room to walk inside when stacking wood, and a sturdy roof?

Well, this could be the shed you’ve been dreaming of. Plus, it comes with detailed plans on how to properly construct it.

17. Ana White’s Firewood Shed

This firewood shed has a traditional yet modern feel to it. It’s one of my favorites on this list because it looks easy to construct while also being functional.

The woodshed has a solid bottom with railed sides to keep the firewood neatly stacked and in place. However, it has four corner posts and a roof as well to keep the wood dry from the damp elements winter brings.

18. Rustic Firewood Rack

Some people need a firewood rack to store wood to burn indoors over the winter. Some need a neat place to stack their wood for a firepit or campsite.

If you need a firewood rack for the last two options, this rack will do the trick. It’s a rustic design where rough cut logs and stumps are used to support the wood and keep everything tidy until you’re ready to use it.

19. Basement Firewood Rack

If you live in a climate where the weather is miserably cold over winter, you want to stack your wood in a convenient location.

Well, an unfinished basement could be the perfect location. This firewood rack was installed in an unfinished basement, which turned out to be convenient. It’s a great idea which could keep you from making multiple trips through the snow.

20. The Firewood Box

I’m a person who likes for things to function well, but if I can make them look pretty and also hide what I’m storing, it’s even better in my book.

This box fits this description perfectly. It’s a gorgeous wooden box which could be discretely placed anywhere on your property. You can put your firewood neatly inside where no one would ever notice it.

With that, you now have 20 different design options for constructing a place to store your firewood during the winter.

Hopefully, you’ve found something to either help you build or to inspire your build and will keep your firewood neatly stored until you’re ready to use it.

 

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How to Sew Leather (and Other Tough Materials

This article was originally published by Michael Magnus on www.artofmanliness.com

It may seem like sewing is an exclusively feminine pursuit (outside the tailoring profession), but dating back to the Paleolithic age, rudimentary sewing techniques were a vital necessity for staying alive. Sewing isn’t just about making decorative doilies, but also knowing how to quickly stitch something together for survival with minimal gear and maximum strength.

You’ve probably noticed that when you tear a seam on your clothing, it’s easy to accidentally end up tearing out at least 5 or 6 stitches. This is because sewing machines utilize a sewing method called the “lock stitch,” which creates a chain reaction when a stitch fails. If you want something that’ll stand firmer against failure, you’ll want to use a different method: the saddle stitch. This sewing methodology used by saddle makers for generations is more durable because where one stitch is broken, only one stitch is broken.

The saddle stitch is ruggedly functional because you can create it using a variety of improvised tools, and it can be used to patch/attach/close a variety of thick materials; whether repairing a tear in a tent, fixing a hole in a sleeping bag, or making a sheath for a hatchet, knowing how to saddle stitch is a skill that comes in handy.

For this tutorial, we’ll be demonstrating this hand sewing technique on one of the toughest materials you can work with: leather.

Let’s get sewing like a man

Tools Needed

  • 2 sewing needles
  • Thread, preferably waxed (if not pre-waxed, you can wax it yourself with beeswax, a candle, etc.)
  • Ice pick, sewing awl, or hammer/nails
  • Binder clips, small clamps, or something of the sort
  • Fork
  • Pen (optional)

To illustrate this stitching method, we’ll be using two pieces of vegetable tan leather. This material may be thicker than a lot of the other materials you may work with; however, if you can replicate this method with resilient leather, chances are it will work elsewhere. This is can be handy for being able to repair canvas or cloth; the same basic concepts and techniques apply.

Step 1: Preparing the Leather

Often one of the most challenging parts of hand sewing leather is keeping the two pieces from slipping so that the stitching stays straight. You can accomplish this without binding; however, you’ll get cleaner results with a little assistance. I’m going to use binder clips here, but you could use an adhesive or even nails. This binding is particularly helpful if you are repairing something like a tent or a sail, where the repair has to be made where it stands.

Starting with the rough sides together and the smooth sides out, align the outside edges and use the binder clips to hold them together. This will help ensure that the holes for the stitching align and keep everything straight.

Step 2: Set the Spacing

What we want to do is give ourselves somewhat even spacing to work from. A fork will generally do the trick for this. It may not be perfectly straight, but it gets the job done. The aim is to create a guide by making impressions on the leather of what the spacing needs to be and where the holes will go. To do this, you’ll want to overlap the last impression (making only 3 new marks each time) to ensure even spacing.

If you are using this method on canvas or other material, you can use the same technique with a fork, but mark the spacing with a pen or whatever you may have available.

 

Step 3: Creating Holes

A sewing awl is ideal to puncture holes, but again, you may be limited on available tools. If you have access to something like an ice pick or a sturdy shank, that would work. With the right tool, it actually cuts the leather for sewing, whereas an ice pick or a shank will tear a hole. Ultimately, having a sewing awl on hand might create a longer-lasting repair, but you have to work from whatever you have available.

There is another option too: hammer and nails. By finding a log or piece of wood, you can secure the two ends of your materials together by hammering a nail to hold it in place. From there, you can replicate the fork method for marking stitch lines and then hammer a nail to create the holes for stitching.

Knives typically don’t work very well for this step. You ideally need a relatively round hole and the puncture from a knife is elongated. If it’s all you have, you may be able to complete this step by creating knife punctures perpendicular to the edge of the material to make sure that you can maintain the spacing. This leaves more room for the stitch to tear out, but, again, use what you have on hand.

Now to actually make the holes: Utilizing the pattern made with the fork, pierce all the way through the leather. Depending on how thick the leather is and how sharp your piercing utensil is, you may need to puncture from each side. If so, push far enough through that you can start to see where the hole would come through and then turn the leather around to finish creating the hole from the other side.

Step 4: Sewing

Now that we have our holes in each piece of leather, we are going to prepare the thread. For this saddle stitch method, you’ll want to measure and cut at least 3.5 times the distance of the length that you plan on sewing.

Optional: If your thread is not waxed, you might consider waxing the thread at this time with beeswax or candle wax. To do so, hold the thread between your thumb and the wax and pull it a few times. The friction from the pressure will help the thread take the wax, which will help prolong the life of the thread and help prevent the stitch from loosening.

You’ll want to start with a needle on each end of the thread, and the first thing you’ll do is push this first needle through the first hole. After you’ve pulled a threaded needle through the first hole, even out the amount of thread on each side of the material so that each needle is roughly equal distance from the piece of leather.

The thread should go through relatively easily, but depending on the size of the needle versus the size of the hole, you may consider using some pliers to help pull the needle through. If you do use pliers, make sure that you are pulling the needle straight, because pulling through at an angle is likely to break your needle.

Once you’ve set up, you’re going to start sewing figure eights back and forth through the holes. You’ll start by taking the first needle through the second hole, going through both pieces of leather, and then taking the second threaded needle to go through that same hole in the opposite direction. In theory, the holes should be relatively lined up on each piece of leather; however, you may sometimes need to adjust slightly to find the right angle to go through both holes.

Note: If one needle passes through the thread of the previous pass, you may encounter some problems pulling the stitching tight. To avoid this, after the first needle has passed through, pull the thread to one side to create a clear passage for the second needle.

You will continue to do this all the way down your guide holes, pulling the thread firmly to tighten the stitch with each pass through. For the last holes, we will sew through them twice to “lock” the stitch (more on that in just a bit), so this is a good time to evaluate if you think the needle will pass through easily a second time. If you’ve had no trouble up until this point, you may be fine. However if you have experienced some struggle getting the needle through, you’ll probably want to widen the last few holes with your awl or icepick to make sure that they pass more easily.

To complete the stitch, go through the final holes in the same figure 8 pattern that you have been using. Once you get to the end, you will double back through at least two sets of holes with this same method. Again, you may find it little more difficult to get it through since these are already relatively small holes and we will have filled them with twice as much thread.

Once you have stitched back twice, pull the thread tight and trim the thread.

Congratulations, you’ve completed the saddle stitch. It’s not always pretty, but it’s very durable and functional. This information will come in handy when you inevitably need to stitch something when camping, sailing, or surviving the zombie apocalypse.

Watch the Video

 

 

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About the author : Michael Magnus is a digital advertising lecturer, consultant, and freelancer based in North Texas. When not teaching or with his family, Magnus promotes the art of leatherworking as a recreational leathercraft historian and content creator with the Elktracks Studio Foundation.

 

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Off Grid Living: How to Get Land and Build an Inexpensive Home or Cabin

Prepping and off grid cabins are a popular topic for many in the modern day. Have what it takes to go from just talking to actually making it happen?

Imagine, your own “survival cabin”… Here’s how to make it happen.

 

What if that cabin one day saved your life?

Maybe a national crisis has lead to an all out economic collapse; city poverty spins out of control; hunger is a way of life and results in an enormous wave of crime. Maybe that’s about the time you say enough is enough, pack your vehicle, and then head off for that cabin you built, knowing it has everything you needed to survive the next several months or even years.

How to Get Land and Build an Inexpensive Off Grid Cabin

Planning, financing and building your own cabin-refuge-shelter

Today the Government is urging everyone to have an emergency plan. Being ready to move to safety from natural, manmade or other disasters is a fact of life in today’s unstable world.

But responsible preppers and survivors are ahead of the curve and making plans and preparations to escape and outlast any future civil unrest, war or natural disaster. Having a cabin or shelter that ensures basic needs is at the top of their list. Building one that satisfies the criteria of heat, water and security is a serious decision.

The Plan

There are several options for building a retreat.
A pre-planned relocation for a permanent move is an intentional off-grid lifestyle choice. Researching land, planning the retreat/cabin and moving there is a serious project. The other is a refuge-shelter option. This is where the cabin-shelter is within a safe drive from the permanent home site and can be reached in times of confusion such as can result in an attack on the homeland or time of civil unrest.

This option requires serious thought since it will need to be far enough away from large cities where law and order will be disintegrating and travel could be dangerous, and still have the necessary resources for lasting out the emergency and recovery.

 

So Many Choices for Property …

Researching and selecting a region where to place the shelter is the first step. The place needs to be remote enough from hostile groups, environmental dangers such as dams that may come down and flood the area below, seismic areas where earthquakes and volcanic forces can be a factor, and areas where the current weather conditions can be a serious issue such as wildfire history, droughts, severe storms and potential for weather changes due to wind shifts.

Despite the extreme claims of some that manmade climate change is the greatest danger to life on earth, the reality is that weather is solar in origin. The sun is now entering a cyclic low period and this has effects on wind currents, temperatures, even earthquakes. Many scientists have noted as well that the earth’s magnetosphere has decreased severely and a polar reversal is quite possible with possible disastrous effects due to all regions. The area selected should take these into consideration and extremes avoided.

Funding: land and construction for your off (or on) grid cabin

The USDA has numerous funding programs for rural communities.
No down payment loans are available in areas selected for the USDA program. These satisfy the need to be within a reasonable travel distance of a settlement for community and resource-sharing in a survival situation. Finding a compatible community through research, contact making and networking is the best way to make a decision. Some rural communities also offer free land to those who would settle there. The options are many and a Google search is the quickest way to investigate the application process for each.

Building the refuge

Finding land to buy that fits these criteria will require research and contact work. There are real estate companies that deal specifically with off-grid property and land such as unitedcountry.com. You can also Google for off-grid real estate for other businesses that can assist. Some accessibility by road is a necessity for moving building materials onto the site.

Choices include builders who deal in remote cabins, Log cabin kits, DIY with recycled materials and buying a site and planning your own custom refuge. Henry Thoreau built his cabin on Walden Pond from recycled materials.

He was close to a water source, sheltered by trees and close enough to Concord, MA to walk to town to his sister’s house for evening dinner. Water accessibility is an absolute necessity.

Consider properties with water rights and stream access

Properties near rivers or streams may have riparian rights to channel water for personal usage and this should be verified. Other properties may come under “water rights” in the title, especially in agricultural communities.

The DIY cabin may hold the most possibilities since it can not only fit the individual needs of family groups but provide a learning experience in self-reliance, re: fixing things.

The floor plan

The floor plan will need to emphasize using light and heat the best way and some privacy must be sacrificed at the cost of fuel efficiency. Strong doors with a bar across them and interior shutters will provide security and safety since the home must now also be a castle. A site needs to have a number of elements for successful survival. Nearby and accessible clean water, wood and usable timber for fuel and building, stone or other solid materials for construction, a way to shield the structure from view ( nets and foliage camouflage), and a place to grow subsistence and hardy crops, a place for domestic animals and shelter and forage for them. Domestic animals also provide manure. This can be used for fertilizer and burned as fuel as well. An escape route for vehicles, horses or on foot is also a survival reality as well as means to generate power through solar, wind or water power. There are several options for construction of a survival cabin/shelter.

Local lumber or cabin kits

Do-it-yourself log cabins from local lumber or kits are one possibility. Getting expert assistance and actual physical help is important since logs are heavy and safety must come first. Having a modular home is another. These can be delivered and installed on a foundation. Shipping containers are a new way to construct sturdy and affordable shelters. These can be altered and outfitted to provide livable and expandable shelters. “Tiny houses” are still another option and are moveable.

Whether you preplan your survival relocation or have a nearby but safe retreat, cabin/shelter life will be vastly different from what is normal today. You will have to be totally involved in developing sustainable food, fuel and other resources on a daily basis.

Shelter that stands up to four seasons

Your shelter will have to have the means nearby to provide the materials for daily life and for winter and seasonal weather changes.

The cabin will have to reflect the new necessities of conserving heat, food and re-using all materials such a scans, storage containers, even items usually discarded in the trash such as food wrappers. Growing hardy and nutritious crops such as potatoes, corn and pumpkins will develop food sources that actually supply their own seed.

Running water sources can even create electricity

Water sources will supply water, fish and even some water power for energy with a battery storage system. Adapting to a new environment will be a challenge but having a cabin/shelter that supports that new life will make the transition easier and keep hope alive in a world gone mad.

 

 

Source : www.secretsofsurvival.com

 

 

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How Your Dog Fits Into Surviving Off the Grid

Making survival plans for yourself requires extensive preparation, but plans get even more complicated when you have to account for others. If you have a four-legged companion, or are thinking of getting one, you need to consider how they will fit into your doomsday prep.

 

In a survival situation, dogs are great not only for company, but as helpers as well. For example, their agility and sharpened senses can help you hunt, and their loyalty love for you can be a source of protection. In the event of an apocalypse, dogs can be a wonderful asset.

Surviving With Your Dog

Though dogs are highly resilient and versatile animals — likely more than humans — domesticity has fostered a dependency to humans in dogs. While they will easily adjust to a new living situation, it is still up to you to provide them with the best care possible for them in an event of an emergency.

 

To prepare, you should assemble a bug out bag for your dog and put it next to yours. Don’t forget to include bowls for food and water, extra leashes, extra collars, dry food, water, towels, and blankets. You should also put together a first aid kit for dogs, as their medical needs vary from ours.

 

Dogs are smaller than humans and they don’t complain as much as we do. For those reasons, they are fairly adaptable to new living situations, but they still have certain needs that need to be met. For example, in terms of living arrangements, they can survive in just about any shelter, be it an RV, a tent, a car, or a handbuilt shelter.

 

Just remember, if you live in a small space like a car or RV, dogs will need regular exercise. Experts recommend the following when living in tight quarters:

 

“Make sure that your pet gets plenty of play time outside. They want to check out the new area as well. When we arrive at a new location our dogs can’t wait to get to sniffing and explore. Pets need their exercise, and to let out all that energy they have bottled up from that road trip.  One of our dogs has some anxiety issues, and exploring the area really helps her calm down and get familiar with the area.”

Hunting Dogs

There is no limit to the benefits dogs provide in our lives. Their basic companionship is enough of a positive influence in our lives, but they can also be very useful in survival situations — especially for hunting. From tracking prey to retrieving kills, having a hunting dog with you in a survival scenario could help you out, and even save your life.

 

Many dogs are great for hunting, but some breeds are especially optimized for particular game. Here are some dogs that are great for hunting:

 

  • Duck hunting: Black Labs
  • Pheasant hunting: English Springer Spaniel
  • Grouse hunting: English Setter
  • Sea Duck Hunting: Chesapeake Bay Retriever
  • Quail hunting: English Pointer
  • Rabbit hunting: Beagle
  • Deer hunting: American Foxhound
  • Turkey Hunting: Appalachian Turkey Dogs
  • Hog Hunting: Dogo Argentino
  • Bear Hunting: Plott Hound
  • Mountain Lion Hunting: Bluetick Coonhound

Protective Dogs

Dogs are known to be man’s best friend, and they have give us their loyalty to prove it. Though most dogs are friendly to everyone, some dogs are particularly loyal to their humans. Many dogs take it even a step further and have protective instincts that can come in handy when in survival mode.

 

They can alert you when strangers are near and they can be ready to attack if someone is trying to harm you. Protective dogs are a great asset to have when you don’t know who to trust and you need to be constantly on the lookout for threats to your safety.

 

Here is a list of some dogs that are especially protective of their owners:

 

  • German Shepherd Dog
  • Bullmastiff
  • Sharpei
  • Tibetan Mastiff
  • Great Pyrenees
  • Doberman Pinscher
  • Great Swiss Mountain Dog

Active Dogs

 

Most dogs, with the exception of couch potatoes, will require some level of active maintenance. However, a survival lifestyle may require that dogs walk or run a long distance on a regular basis. Lap dogs that lounge around for most of the day may not adjust well to this lifestyle and can struggle or even face negative health consequences from physical strain.

 

Here are some active dog breeds that are great for runners, have the most stamina, and enjoy being active outdoors:

 

  • Australian Shepherd
  • Siberian Husky
  • Labrador Retriever
  • Weimaraner
  • Standard Poodle
  • Jack Russell Terrier
  • Vizsla
  • Alaskan Malamute
  • German Shepherd Dog
  • Border Collie

 

Don’t worry if your dog isn’t on one of these lists. Most dogs are resilient and every dog offers their own specialty set of skills. You know your dog better than anyone else, so keep in mind your dog’s personality traits when preparing for a bug out scenario. Keep in mind stamina, size, age, and health.

 

If you don’t have a dog but you’re thinking of getting one, you should consider a dog on one of these lists. You can incorporate training your dog into your survival prep, like going on a hunting trip, camping trip, or RV trip with them to introduce them to possible scenarios. Think about what kind of survival plans you have, and choose a breed that will not only work for your current lifestyle, but one that would work if you were in a survival situation.

Source : www.doomsdaymoose.com

About the author : Avery T. Phillips is a freelance human being with too much to say. She loves nature and examining human interactions with the world. Comment or tweet her @a_taylorian with any questions or suggestions.

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